Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Trim excess fat from meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a skillet, heat extra virgin olive oil. When very hot, brown meat on all sides. Place browned meat in a roasting pan with the bones and bake for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, chop onions, carrots, and leeks coarsely. Add to the roasting pan after the 30 minutes have passed. Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Roast for another 25 minutes. After 25 more minutes, add the wine and vinegar, and several leaves each of rosemary, sage, and thyme. Cook for 25 more minutes. Remove roast from the oven and puree the vegetable mixture and drippings. Allow the roast to rest, then slice. Serve sliced meat with mashed potatoes or soft polenta, sauce with the drippings.
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