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Suribachi and Surikogi
The suribachi is
a Japanese mortar used with a pestle called a surikogi. In Japanese cooking the
suribachi is used to crush sesame seed as well as for various pastes.
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Suribachi - Topics Index |
Suribachi
Definition |
Uses Today |
The Bowl
(Suribachi) |
Credits and
Sources |
The Pestle
(Surikogi) |
Recipe
Collection |
History
and Past Uses |
How to Buy |

Photo: A detailed image of the interior bowl
grooves.
The Bowl (Suribachi)
The mortar is an earthenware bowl, glazed on the outside. The inside of the bowl has
a ridged pattern (kushi-no-me) to facilitate grinding. There are several common
interior patterns, the simple circlular pattern shown above, as well as a pattern made up
of a series of "commas", and a daisy-wheel design.

photo: suribachi bowl
The Pestle (Surikogi)
The pestle called "surikogi" is made of wood rather than clay and keeps the
pestle from wearing down the ridges in the mortar. The traditional and less common
pestle is made from the Japanese pepper tree (sansho) and the bark is left on the pestle.
It is said that this pestle imparts a slight peppery flavor to the food it grinds. I think
a case could be made to obtain this version simply for its
natural beauty.

photo by
gourmetsleuth: sansho surikogi with rough bark shaft
History
and Past Uses
The Suribachi is originally from
Southern China and was introduced to Japan between the eleventh and twelfth century.
Prior to this time the common mortar was a stone implement. The tool was first used for
preparing medicines, then later used for grinding flour and eventually for food
preparation.
The suribachi became an indispensable kitchen tool in the Japanese home. According to
Professor Koizumi Kazuko (an authority on Japanese implements and furnishings) the
suribachi has played a significant role in history and development of Japanese
cuisine.
"The original use of the suribachi may have been to grind miso, and over the years
many dishes were developed using the suribachi : goma-yogoshi (vegetables flavored with a
sauce of seasoned, ground sesame), goma-miso (miso flavored with ground sesame), dengaku
(sweetened miso sauce used to flavor toasted tofu), kinome-ae (dressing made with sansho
sprigs), shira-ae (dressing made of tofu mixed with white sesame), tororo-jiru (grated
tororo), tsumire (fish paste balls), denbu (shredded seasoned fish flakes) and kinoton
(dumplings covered with ground sesame or soybean powder)."
Source: (Translation by Nonaka Yuko, forthcoming in a
joint English translation of Daidokoro no zukan, by Koizumi Kazuko, original
publisher, Heibonsha,1998 )

surikogi (pestle). this is a typical
mass-produced pestle.
How To Use
Place the suribachi on your work top.
The bottom of the bowl is unglazed so you may need to protect your worktop by
placing a towel beneath the bowl. The actual grinding is a two-handed process.
Hold the top of the pestle with one hand and rotate the lower part with the other.
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Uses Today
You'll find that the suribachi is an essential
tool for preparation of many common Japanese sauces, dressings, and pastes. Obviously you
need not confine it's uses to Japanese cuisine. It would be equally handy for
preparing garlic, nuts or other herbs and seasonings for a salsa or a mole.
Trivia
Mt. Suribachi is the highest
point on the island of Iwo Jima. It is named because it's bowl shaped caldera which is
similar in shape to the suribachi (mortar). It is the location of the famous and tragic
battle of World War II.
Other Japanese Mortars
Another mortar used in
Japanese food preparation is the "usu" used to pound glutinous rice to make rice
cakes called "mochi". These mortars are quite large and normally sit on
the ground or a large sturdy table. The rice is pounded with a long handled
pestle "kine" that looks like a wooden mallet.

Usu (mortar) and kine (pestle). Photo from Colby.edu
Credits
and Sources
Most importantly, we would like to thank Professor Koizumi Kazuko and translator Lynne E.
Riggs for providing most of the information about the Suribachi. Professor Koizumi
is a specialist and authority on traditional Japanese implements. Ms. Riggs is a
translator and is currently overseeing the English translation of Professor Koizumi's book
"Daidokoro no zukan, original publisher, Heibonsha,1998".
Grinding Implements -
History of Grinding
Instruments in Japan
Recipe
Collection
Green Beans in Sesame Dressing - Includes
sesame seeds, ginger, dashi, miso paste.
Soy and Sesame
Seed Dressing - uses white sesame seeds, sake, sugar, and soy sauce.
How to Buy
GourmetSleuth
- We sell a simple 7.25" suribachi with a 6" surikogi.


View Blue Suribachi
Set |